The
Colorado Alpine Loop Byway is one of the most scenic drives in America and is guaranteed
to take your breath away. It is no secret that the San Juan Mountains of Southwest
Colorado offer some of the most spectacular scenery in the lower forty eight
states. Created by the forces of nature, these spectacular mountain peaks, glacial
valleys, crystal clear streams, and blue water lakes are all awaiting visitors
to the Alpine Loop.
The
Loop is a sixty-five mile byway that traverses the rugged and scenic San Juan
Mountains between the towns of Ouray, Silverton, and Lake City aka; the “Alpine
Triangle.” Unlike most casual Sunday drive byways, the Alpine Loop is a rugged,
four-wheel drive route that threads itself through some of the most picturesque
and remote locations in Colorado. The Loop leaves the pavement and population
behind as it traverses the remote heart of the San Juans. It crosses several
steep walled river canyons, through the treeless landscape of tundra, and passes
innumerable alpine meadows, each one, blanketed with blooming wildflowers.
The
Alpine Loop navigates through the summits of the Rockies by way of two mountain
passes. Engineer Pass, to the north, rises 12,800 feet and provides an
unsurpassed panorama for photographs of Uncompahgre and Wetterhorn Peaks, each towering
more than 14,000 feet. From Engineers Pass, adventurers feel like they are on
top of the world looking down. On the southern route, Cinnamon Pass at 12,620
feet, provides views of three additional “fourteeners” in the Alpine Triangle;
Handies, Sunshine, and Red Cloud Peaks.
The
Loop follows the original route used by miners to haul ore and supplies through
these rugged mountains. Along the loop, you will pass by historic sites such as
Rose’s Cabin (originally an overnight stage stop), the Ute-Ulay Mine (first
opened in 1871), Lake City National Historic District, Silverton National
Historic District, and the Ouray National Historic District. These are just a
few of the towns that have survived the past century, originally established to
support the mines and miners. Other “Boom Towns” disappeared with the miners
and are now, today, only ghost towns.
The
Loop passes several of these mining ghost towns like Capitol City,
Howardsville, Eureka, Whitehorse, Mineral Point, and Animas Forks; where
visitors are able to explore the ruins of a jail, houses, and other mining
structures. Not all of the mining areas are open to the public and are located
on private land, so follow the signs and the information book carefully.
Due
to extreme weather conditions most of the year travelers only have a few months,
June to September, to really explore the loop corridor. Travelers may find road
damage from the spring run-off, dirt roads covered with heavy rocks, and
flowing streambeds every now and then. This is when the loop’s 4WD road rating
increases significantly. Along the Loop travelers will also come across areas
that have more ups and downs than a roller coaster at Elitch Gardens.
While
the mountains have a lot of history, it’s the scenery that steals the show. The
Alpine Loop traverses through several of Colorado’s wilderness areas, such as
Big Blue Wilderness Area, American Basin, Lake San Cristobal, and Weminuche
Wilderness Area. The loop also passes five more of Colorado’s fourteeners which
provide ideal hiking opportunities for the adventurous traveler. During summer
months the landscape along the loop and, especially, in American Basin is bursting
with wildflowers in bloom. Visitors that explore the loop in late September or
early October will experience an explosion of autumn yellows, reds, ambers, and
oranges covering the mountain sides.
Wildlife
seen along the loop will include squirrels, marmots, chipmunks, and rabbits.
Beavers are often found along the creeks, lakes, and tributaries. Elk and deer
are known to migrate into the area as the snow melts each year, looking for
summer ranges out of reach of human populations. Alpine Loop travelers will occasionally
spot Bighorn sheep on the high peaks of the San Juan’s, grazing remote slopes
in the summer and the southern facing slopes in the winter. Mountain goats have
also been spotted along the Silverton area. Black bears are also known to
frequent the Alpine Triangle but usually below the timberline in the forested
areas.
Along
the Loop travelers will find several campgrounds; South Mineral Creek,
Wupperman, William Creek, Millcreek, Molas, Amphitheater and Lost Trail (the
most remote); picnic areas (Red Mountain Gulch), and several restroom
facilities but travelers should be prepared for rustic accommodations. Any of
these campgrounds will provide excellent starting points for many of your
outdoor activities. The area boasts of over one hundred miles of trails
maintained by the Bureau of Land Management or the Forest Service. Backcountry
recreational opportunities such as hiking, mountain biking, fishing, and
backpacking abound within the Alpine Triangle. Basic outfitting services are
available for travelers in Lake City, Ouray, and Silverton.
Alpine
Loop travelers can begin their journeys from Ouray, Silverton, or Lake City. Travelers
only need to follow the blue columbine signs indicating the Alpine Loop. Signs
along the route will also alert visitors when four-wheel drive is recommended. Two-thirds
of the route is accessible by two-wheel drive vehicles but high clearance, four-wheel
drive is an absolute necessity if you plan to cross over the high passes. Up on
the Alpine Loop, it is especially important to pay close attention to the signs
and let “common sense” be your guide.
Travelers
along the Loop should plan two days to traverse the loop and have time to really
enjoy the back country. If this is your first visit along the Loop it might be
advisable to tag along on a local outfitter’s guided jeep safari. For
information on 4WD jeep rentals and guided jeep tours, hiking tours, horseback
outfitters, or museum and historic tours visitors should visit the following
website: www.lakecity.com/alpineloop. For detailed
information about the historic and natural attractions along the loop, visitors
can pick up a copy of the Alpine Explorer guide at the visitor center in Lake
City or visit the following websites: www.byways.org/explore
or www.coloradobyways.org.
Cristoforo “Cris” Magnino
